Around eleven o’clock every morning, Barzan would look through the door of my office and say “Come! Let’s have cappuccino!” I would look up at him and respond enthusiastically “Yes!” Five minutes later I would find myself seated at a chair by his desk, stirring a cup of instant cappuccino made in Turkey and readily available in the Kurdish market. That was when our conversation would begin.
It began in early May. May in Kurdistan is when you begin to feel the change in weather. Spring with its rain and lush green fields is gone, but the high temperatures of summer have not yet arrived. The days get longer, and you feel the joy of a season’s change. This May however, the holy month of Ramadan had just begun, and that changed things. The days were long and the nights even longer. For Muslims around the world, the month of Ramadan is a time of fasting and prayer. From sunup until sundown, strict Muslims abstain from food, liquid, smoking, and sex.
Instead of a normal May, Ramadan overlaid it with spiritual highs and physical lows. The latter seemed to far outweigh the former. Everyone was grumpy. Everyone was self-righteous. Everyone had a headache, and everyone claimed they were feeling the best they’d ever felt.
As an outsider, I too was feeling the change in temperament and temper, so the first time Barzan invited me, I looked at him in complete surprise.
“But it’s Ramadan!” I said, shock evident in my voice.
“Yes, and sometimes we need to have cappuccino during
Ramadan!” His answer was priest-like in its authority and conviction.
I looked at him with joy and amazement. Here was someone who I could relate with, who worked out his faith practically with room for questioning, and perhaps going against the crowd.
The Kurdish Region of Iraq (KRI) is an autonomous zone in Northern Iraq. Unlike the surrounding countries of Syria, Turkey, and Iran, Kurds in this region have carved out a semblance of autonomy. Kurds consider this area to be Southern Kurdistan, one of four parts of Kurdistan, the other parts being Northern Kurdistan (southeastern Turkey), Eastern Kurdistan (northwestern Iran), and Western Kurdistan (northern Syria). Kurds themselves are divided as to what would be best for the people of the region. One more nation state, or more independence within the boundaries of their existing countries? Talk to one person and you’ll get one thought, another and you’ll get a completely different opinion.
For Kurds in Northern Iraq, carving out this autonomous region was not easy, and it continues to have significant challenges. An uprising against Saddam Hussein in 1991, a United Nations Security Council Resolution establishing a safe haven for Kurdish refugees, and a “No Fly Zone” established by the United States and Coalition forces all worked toward a common purpose and in October of 1991, the Iraqi government finally left, allowing Kurds in the region to begin to live and govern independently. This is a simplistic overview of a much more complex political reality, but it helps outsiders to understand a little of the fierce independence and pride that characterize the area.
The Kurdish Region of Iraq is home to approximately five million Kurds. The solidarity shared with Kurds in the surrounding countries is important to understand. Just like family, I can criticize my family, but you have no right to because you don’t belong, is much the way I experienced Kurds solidarity with each other. They may fight within, but when faced with outside threats, the solidarity and unity is profound. The fight against D’aesh (the Islamic State) was symbolic of Kurds being willing to put aside their differences and come together to fight against an external threat. They did so bravely and selflessly, ridding the region of terror and allowing families to return home after long exiles.
This is what I have been thinking about as I read and react with tears to the recent invasion of Syria by Turkey. Kurds are feeling this acutely. If you’ve watched any recent news, you don’t need me to tell you this. Far more learned and qualified people are writing extensive articles and opinion pieces.
So why does my voice matter?
Maybe because of cappuccino with Barzan.
We first visited the region in 2015 at the height of the
crisis with D’aesh. Massive movement had taken place in Northern Iraq. Arab
Christians from Mosul and Qaraqosh had left homes, factories, businesses, and
restaurants to get their families to safety, away from the tyranny of the
Islamic State. Churches and businesses in Erbil, the capital of the KRG, opened
their doors to people who had arrived in crisis. Unfinished malls and apartment buildings were
quickly equipped with particle board and moveable walls to create rooms for
families. At one building we visited, 120 people shared the same kitchen and
bathroom. Families left most everything behind as they moved to the area for
safety. And Kurds welcomed them – welcomed them with jobs, food packets, and
homes. The stories we heard during that time will remain with me forever,
stories of hope and horror, humanity at its best and worst. My husband and I
left after ten days in the region with only one thought: We wanted to return. We
wanted to move to Northern Iraq. Specifically, we wanted to move to Kurdistan.
Some dreams become reality while others remain silent and still, occupying our hearts and minds in quiet moments, but unable to be voiced because they hurt too much. Our dream became a reality and in September of last year, my husband and I moved to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. To say we left everything is true. We left excellent jobs at health departments and universities in Boston. We gave away everything except our car, which we sold to an eccentric lady who belonged in a novel. We packed up our lives and our faith and we moved. We didn’t really know how long we would be gone, but we expected to live in the region for at least two years. In one year, you barely begin to understand a new country and culture and cultural adjustments occupy a good amount of your time and energy. You need at least two years, and after that – who knew?
That’s why cappuccino with Barzan was so significant. In the space of a half hour we would talk about everything. Politics (Kurdish, Iraqi, and American), faith, friendship, the profession of nursing, nursing students, marriage, differing cultures, worldviews, and even Wanda, Barzan’s hostess during a time when he lived in the United States. Wanda was an unseen part of every conversation. Barzan and I didn’t always agree – we didn’t have to. Cappuccino made our disagreements sweet and palatable.
It was after having cappuccino with Barzan one morning that
I found out a decision had been made by the Kurdish Government that
dramatically altered our lives. The Minister of Finance had passed down a
decree to the Minister of Education that affected all contract employees.
Anyone with Bachelor’s Degrees would lose their job; anyone with a Master’s or
PhD would lose half their salary. We were summoned to the university president’s
office and were given the news. We left the meeting in shock.
We did not want to leave. We wanted to stay in the small
city where we had carved out not only morning cappuccino, but also significant
community through friendships. My husband taught swimming every Tuesday at a
local pool to men who had never had the opportunity to learn how to swim. I was
beginning to work with a group of women to teach health classes in the
community. We had connected with an NGO and begun game nights every Thursday,
and Fridays saw us at an English Talk Club participating with a group of Kurds
who we had formed deep friendships with through discussions on many topics all
conducted in English. Leave? How could we leave? We had to stay!
A tumultuous month followed, where rumor and fact collided
and the truth of the edict was difficult to uncover. But by the end of June we
had resigned ourselves to the idea that we would be leaving Kurdistan. The decision
We felt betrayed. Though it was a non-personal decision made
at a high governmental level, it felt personal. We watched as Iranian
colleagues packed their bags and moved back across the border to Iran. We heard
from Kurdish colleagues who were also contract employees and had lost their
jobs as well. It was a decision that couldn’t be fought and could take months
or years to be reversed.
Our hearts broke. Tears flowed at odd times, our grieving was raw and real. We arrived back in the United States right before the fourth of July and the release of Stranger Things. We had lived our own version of Stranger Things, and it was a relief to binge watch something that took our mind off our transition and grief.
No Friends But the Mountains
The Kurds have a proverb, rightfully born of being
surrounded by countries that don’t want an independent nation of Kurdistan to
exist. “We have no friends but the mountains” was something we heard from our
Kurdish friends over and over during our time in the KRG. We would hear the proverb
as we were walking and talking with friends or sitting with them eating a
delicious meal and sipping hot tea from glasses.
When I found out that the current administration had made the
decision to withdraw American forces from Syria, an area that was being
controlled by Syrian Kurdish forces, I thought of the proverb and how Kurds
would be feeling and talking about this as they learned of the decision. I felt
betrayed with my Kurdish friends by my own government. Had I still lived in Kurdistan,
our cappuccino time would be spent grieving the decision. Instead, it was my husband and me, cursing and
grieving the short sightedness of this move. Generally able to look at a
decision from multiple angles, this one was political and personal. Destabilization
of a fragile area; abandoning loyal allies and paving a path for ISIS to
re-emerge are just a couple of the potential outcomes, but largely not
understood by many was the ethnic cleansing tragedy waiting to happen. How
could America do this? How could we abandon allies that helped defeat D’aesh
and be able to sleep at night? How could we not know that the area would create
another massive displacement of Kurds and Christian minorities in the region? How
could thoughtless leaders not understand the repercussions of this in a world that is
so deeply interconnected?
And then there was the sense of personal attack! How could
they do this to the Kurds, our friends, people that treated us like family for
ten months? Ten months of extravagant invitations to tea and meals. Ten months
of learning the history of the region, the horrors experienced during the time
of Saddam Hussein and the extraordinary resilience and generosity that
characterized the community. Ten months of friendship forged through time,
food, and laughter. It didn’t matter that this was not the community where we had
lived and worked – these were their Kurdish brothers and sisters, and blood
lines are not easily severed in the region. The how coulds got lost in my fury
If only we were there. If only we were there to sit
with our friends and get angry with them. If only we were there to walk beside
them, to show them that the world had not left them. If only we could sit with
them and let them see that they do have friends beyond the mountains. But we
weren’t there because of the Kurdish government, not the American government.
Two governmental decisions. Two betrayals. But one with far more devastating
effects than job loss.
But instead of drinking cappuccino with Barzan, tea with Yassin, and eating ghormeh sabzi with Behnaz, we were in a city oceans and continents away.
The feelings of sadness come over me regularly, and I try
not to monitor the news 24/7. And I pray. I pray for the Kurds I don’t know,
and the ones I know – the ones who opened their homes and lives to us –
strangers and Americans.
Many years ago, a man came to Jesus and asked him a question about neighbors; specifically, “Who is my neighbor?” Jesus answered him with a story. I learned a lot about being a good neighbor this past year and I didn’t learn it from people who looked like me. I learned it from my Kurdish, Muslim friends. I learned it from Yassin, who offered friendship through time, invitations to dinner, and helping us understand Kurdistan and Kurds. I learned it from Behnaz, a young Iranian Kurdish woman who offered me laughter, joy, and an artist’s eye for beauty. I learned it from Zana and Karwan who taught me how to heat my home and where to buy items in the bazaar. I learned it from Dr. Sanaa who passionately led the university department where I worked. I learned it from Rania who was a patient cultural broker and my fashion consultant. I learned it from so many people that I can’t even name them all.
And I learned it from Barzan, who invited a foreigner into his office every day during Ramadan to drink cappuccino.